Concrete on the lake

As my plane readies to land in Bangalore, I take in the changes. I notice that new buildings are coming up in the expanses, and shockingly, even on lake beds.

Bangalore once boasted over 600 lakes and ponds, and they were perhaps the city's only source of drinking water. That number has now dwindled to 64. And the surviving water bodies are under threat from greedy builders. Lakes and ponds made Bangalore an airconditioned city. With their death, the city is getting hotter.

Bangalore was originally known for its pleasant weather and laidback citizenry. But today, the city is one of the most polluted in India, and its roads are notorious for their potholes and traffic jams.

But not all is lost. If you want to catch some lovely sights, visit the lakes at Ulsoor, Yediyur, Bellandur, Madiwala, Sankey, Hesaraghatta, Bannerghatta, Konanakunte, Nagavara and and Tavarekere. All of them are within the city, and are now full to the brim, thanks to good rains. Bangalore is overrun by real estate, but it is still beautiful in parts, I console myself.

Two Bangalores

Bangalore is two Bangalores: the cantonment built by the British and the old city built by Kempe Gowda.

These co-existed like strangers for nearly two centuries. The cantonment was more English than England even, and Old Bangalore was proud of its princely Mysore culture.

The great economic boom of the 1990s changed all that. The wall between the two cities collapsed. These days the two cities are almost alike. The great divide created by the British, who established the cantonment in 1799, was partially erased when India became independent. It took us another 50 years to erase it completely.

As well-known journalist C K Meena says, " A vanishing Cantonment stereotype is the old codger in dark suit and bowler hat who lives in a bungalow, speaks to Muniswamy the mali in English-accented pidgin Tamil, drives an Austin or a Morris Minor, and patronises India Coffee House on M.G. Road which he still calls South Parade,"

Let me add that the cultured Kannadiga wearing the Mysore turban has disappeared as well.

Rest House Crescent

The cantonment was characterised by tree-lined avenues and huge bungalows. The real estate boom killed quite a bit of this British heritage. But some roads still manage to retain their old world charm. Rest House Crescent connects Church Street and Brigade Road, and despite being in the heart of an upmarket shopping district, retains its 20 th century roots.

Last week I took a leisurely walk along this street.

It gave me great joy to see beautifully designed 19th and early 20th century houses, with signboards proclaiming the owners' names: Rego, Williams, Mascaranhas, Wills, Lobo, Scot ... I noticed a bungalow called, in the manner of yesteryear, Rose Cottage, and another called Woodpecker.

But I can't help but wonder. How long can this green street resist the lure of commerce?

Best form of dosa

Not many people outside Karnataka are familiar with the khali dosa. It is not thin and crisp like the masala dosa. It uses almost no oil, and has a spongy texture. A well made khali dosa melts in the mouth.

The khali dosa is almost dead. Most restaurants have removed it from their menu, and offer a poor alternative called the set dosa.

The khali dosa has lost favour mainly because restaurants can't charge a fancy price for it.

Only about 10 eateries still offer the khali dosa, and that too out of a sentimental attachment to their old menu. I discovered a great khali dosa place in Chamarajapet last week.

Ganesh Refreshments, a stone's throw from the huge Idgah Maidan, serves hot and smooth khali dosa. I persuaded my professor to give it a try. He loved it and described it as the best form of dosa.

Bar bar dekho

Bangalore is known for its cafes and bars. What is the connection between the two? Let me tell you. Love blooms at the Cafe, and for quite a few, ends at the bar.

A local English newspaper survey says the suicide cases of dejected lovers are the highest in Bangalore!

Beach in Bangalore

Bangalore, nearly 3500 feet above the sea level has no sea! One has to travel more than 350 KM on both sides to see a sea. But it has a beach! The name of a restuarant on 100 feet road in the up market Indiranagar is ' The Beach '. Other restuarants on the same road also have exotic names like ' South Indies ', ' The Bean Talks ', ' The Port ', and 'Little Italy'.

The local Congress leaders may make a beeline to ' Little Italy ' to prove their loyalty towards lady boss Sonia Gandhi!